Chiang Rai in the Media
UN Reports Heroin Poppie Cultivation in Golden Triangle has Doubled
CHIANGRAI– Opium cultivation in Southeast Asia’s main poppy-growing countries has more than doubled over the past six years driven largely by rising heroin demand in China and despite recent efforts by regional governments to eradicate the crop, the United Nations’ narcotics office said in a report released Wednesday.
90% of the country’s cultivation takes place in Shan state in the north, where a cease-fire between the Myanmar military and several ethnic militias was recently brokeredThe report’s figures show a resurgence in poppy cultivation in Southeast Asia’s notorious Golden Triangle—an area where parts of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand converge—that abuts southern China. It is one of the world’s two main opium-producing regions, the other being the Golden Crescent across Pakistan, Afghanistan and Iran.
In Myanmar, the increase in illicit drug production comes despite recent political and economic reforms in the country—which as the world’s second-largest grower of poppy after Afghanistan accounts for a quarter of global cultivation—and risks reversing inroads made in a 13-year effort to eliminate opium there. The planted areas are extremely rugged and often controlled by insurgents turned traffickers.
“Because it threatens both the livelihoods of desperately poor people as well as income for armed groups, the act of eradication involves a lot of risk,” said Gary Lewis, the representative for the U.N. Office on Drugs and Crime’s East Asia and Pacific division.
“We must engage with the farming communities and persuade them—with alternative development —to stop growing poppy,” Mr. Lewis said.
The number of opiate users in East Asia—particularly China—and the Pacific now accounts for a quarter of the world’s total use, up from a fifth between 2000 and 2005. According to the World Drug Report, also put out by the U.N. Office on Drugs and Crime, registered heroin users in China rose to 1.1 million in 2010 from about 900,000 in 2002 and account for more than 70% of all heroin users in East Asia and the Pacific.
While estimates of the total number of heroin users in China—including unregistered users—are harder to gauge, the total number of injecting drug users is believed to be about 2.5 million, according to the U.N.
A spokesman for China’s Foreign Ministry on Wednesday said the country has contributed to regional and global counter narcotics initiatives and “made great efforts in preventive education and the prohibition of drugs and drug rehabilitation.”
In July, China’s Ministry of Public Security said the Golden Triangle remains China’s biggest source of illicit drugs.
The drug trade remains a funding source for weapons purchases by armed groups in Myanmar, Mr. Lewis said, though cease-fire negotiations in many of the conflict zones mean progress has been made in breaking part of this nexus. About 90% of the country’s cultivation takes place in Shan state in the north, where a cease-fire between the Myanmar military and several ethnic militias was recently brokered. The area also produces methamphetamines, which are sold in abundance across the border in Thailand.
United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime crop monitors measure poppy buds in an opium field in the hills of the east Shan state, Myanmar.The annual report, which focused on cultivation patterns in Myanmar and Laos, with Thailand’s poppy production now negligible, found that while annual cultivation is still well below the highs seen in the late 1990s, it has made a steady comeback since the low levels seen in 2006.
Opium cultivation in Myanmar increased to 51,000 hectares in 2012 from 21,600 in 2006, while cultivation in Laos rose to 6,800 from 2,500 over that period. In 1999, when
Myanmar had more than 89,500 hectares under cultivation, the country outlined a 15-year plan to eradicate illicit opium cultivation by 2014, a target that the government clings to, with hedging.
“No one can say absolutely we will be drug free by 2014,” said Lt. Col. Zaw Lin Tun, deputy director of Myanmar’s Central Committee for Drug Abuse Control in the Ministry of Home Affairs, though he thought that cultivation and drug use can be reduced. He said that the U.N. assessment was accurate.
With the monetary yields of opium crops about 15 times as high as other cash crops, the plant has remained a far more compelling livelihood for many farmers, who live on steep hillsides and often lack means to get other crops to market.
Seng Wan, secretary of the anti-narcotics committee of the political arm of the Shan State Army, which has mostly made peace with the government, said that many young people in the state, home to about 4.8 million people, are addicted to drugs and blamed the increase in cultivation on the lack of alternative development options.
“When you try to cut down poppy plants, you are taking away their livelihood,” he said. “We are trying to cooperate with the government and the UNODC to reduce farming of poppies.” But the unrest in the state has meant the U.N. group has until recently been barred from all but two small districts in Shan to help promote alternative crops.
Myanmar remains on the U.S. government’s list of major drug-producing and drug-transiting countries, although the U.S. is now exempting the country from aid restrictions due to its recent democratization reforms and efforts to work with the U.S. on drug enforcement.
The UN Office on Drugs and Crime report discussed in the article (South-East Asia Opium Survey 2012 – Lao PDR, Myanmar) available for free download here (pdf).
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CHIANG RAI – Situated in the northern part of Thailand, Chiang Rai slips under the radar of tourists as the area is not as popular as its neighboring city Chiang Mai.
However, Chiang Rai actually offers one-of-a-kind attractions, varying from a majestic white temple to Akha tribe tradition, which cannot be found anywhere else.
Those wanting to know more about Chiang Rai may consult the list below:
Wat Rong Khun (White Temple)
Pha Mee village
Located in Mae Sai district, Pha Mee village is home to the Akha hill tribe. In the past, the village was known as an opium producer and conflict area. However, with the help from the late King Rama IX, Pha Mee has transformed into a peaceful village.
During Asean Travel Journo Camp – a nine-day trip organized by Thai Journalists Association and Thai AirAsia to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Association of Southeast Asian Nations – The Jakarta Post discovered that the tribe recently developed a community-based tourism program, allowing tourists to catch a glimpse of their daily lives through various activities.
By contacting local guides such as Local Alike or go to the Pha Mee directly, tourists can expect to learn about Akha hill tribe tradition, the village history, sample the local Arabica coffee or hop on the village’s giant swing.
Singha Park
Singha is recognized as a Thai beer producer. However, in Singha Park, visitors would not see brewery or the likes, but instead a picturesque oolong tea plantation.
Meanwhile, tucked inside the park, the Phu Phi Lom restaurant is ready to satisfy your taste buds with Northern Thai delicacies.
By Jessicha Valentina
The Jakarta Post
Two villagers pulled my seat and I screamed at the top of my lungs as the cool breeze hits my cheeks.
CHIANG RAI – The Akha’s giant swing, located on the hill of Pha Mee village in Mae Sai district, Chiang Rai, Thailand, was made of woods, ropes and tire. No safety equipment was seen around the swing, only a villager controlling one rope on the side.
Our guide, who is also Local Alike sustainable tourism initiator, Bow Pongnin, ensured us the swing is safe, explaining that it has been a tradition in the village for men to remove the wooden seat and swing as high as they could to prove their manhood.
I felt excited when seeing Pongnin and two Akha natives hopped on the swing. After they were done, I raised my hand, wanting to try it too, of course with a seat on.
As I walked towards the giant swing, I could see the bear-shaped mountains, reminding me of Akha tribe community leader Pho Luang’s story that Pha Mee village’s name was derived from the shape.
I climbed the seat and hold on the rope tightly. Two villagers pulled my seat and I screamed at the top of my lungs as the cool breeze hits my cheeks. I tried to keep my eyes open to make sure I would not fall down the hill as well as to record the breathtaking views on my mind.
After a while, I asked the villager to stop the swing. I felt fortunate as I landed on the ground, fully intact.
The giant swing is not merely for entertainment, but a part of Akha tribe traditions I learned during Asean Travel Journo Camp, an event initiated by Thai Journalists Association and Thai AirAsia.
Though the appearance looked decent, the giant swing plays a crucial role in the life of Akha people, indigenous tribe living in the northern part of Thailand.
In addition to a place for the men to show their manhood, the giant swing’s area is a central spot during Akha’s New Year. In fact, it is considered sacred as visitors are not allowed to look back while entering the gate. “They believe it is going to give bad luck,” said Pongnin.
After trying the giant swing, Pongnin and Pha Mee Community Tourism Enterprise vice president Phakakarn Rongpracharat brought us to a wooden lodge, explaining the community relationship with Thailand former King Rama IX.
Nowadays, Akha tribe grows coffee for a living. However, it was not always the case. Back in the early 1970s, the villagers produced opium to make ends meet.
Opium production was not the only issue. Pha Mee village is located a stone’s throw away from Myanmar border and conflicts happened frequently, making some of the villagers wanted to move from the area.
Fortunately, with the help of King Rama IX, Pha Mee has become a livable peaceful village. The King was said to study the area and suggest them to grow coffee, a tradition they still keep up to this day.
Though peace has come to the village, some people still associated Pha Mee with drugs.
To change the negative image and promote the village, 30 members of the community worked hand-in-hand to develop community-based tourism program, starting from October last year.
Before landing on the giant swing, this tourism community brought us to catch a glimpse of their daily lives through several activities, such as weaving, making local snack, homecoming tradition and trying Akha traditional clothing that includes a five-kilogram silver headpiece. These activities were designed for tourists to learn more about their culture.
Rongpracharat told The Jakarta Post that they enjoy hosting people. “At first we did not have any idea how to start [the community-based tourism], but with the help from several organizations, such as AirAsia and Local Alike, they started to understand it,” she said.
She added that tourism activity had become one of the ways to preserve the tradition.
“Time has changed. Sometime, the children feel shy to wear their traditional Akha clothing. [Since we started the tourism program] the children began to feel proud [to wear the traditional clothing],” she explained.
After the entire activities were done, the community sent us back to our vans. We bid goodbye and, surprisingly, I felt a bit melancholy. In less than 12 hours, this community not only made me understand their traditions, but their hospitality made me, temporarily at least, feel as a part of them.
Jessicha Valentina
The Jakarta Post
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Chiang Rai is often compared to what Chiang Mai was like years ago before tourism boomed and saturated the local community. This Northeast Thailand gem sits within the heart of the Golden Triangle just a mere few hours from the borders of Laos and Myanmar and a scenic four hour bus ride through Doi Luang National Park from Chiang Mai.
Out of the way for most travelers, Chiang Rai has remained unspoiled by the robust influx of tourism. It boasts contemporary Asian urban flair with an artistic and hippie-esque ambiance while retaining Thai authenticity. I set down roots in Chiang Rai after backpacking around Southeast Asia for five months. You can get a taste of the small town expat life here and how the expats and locals have peacefully integrated, living side by side in harmony.
Before I moved to Chiang Rai, a spontaneous weekend visit while traveling was enough to make me fall in love with its quirky charm and creative vibes. What does a weekend in Chiang Rai look like? Sit back, close your eyes and take my hand. Let’s go on a Chiang Rai adventure.
First, we travel there on the back of an elephant…
Just kidding folks, I know riding elephants is a touchy subject; Chiang Rai has its own international airport if you’d rather fly. The popular option is to travel by bus from Chiang Mai. Purchase your ticket at the Green Bus counter in Arcade Bus Station. They have regular buses leaving throughout the day.
Transportation Tip: Renting a motorbike for the weekend allows the most freedom, but if you want to get around using local transportation, take the blue songthaews for 20-30 baht 50 cents- $1) per person.
WAKE UP. We’re in Chiang Rai! Let’s find a place to stay…
The bus station in Chiang Rai is located in the heart of the city center. You can find plenty of accommodation options at reasonable prices, whether you seek a dorm, guesthouse or hotel room. Here are my top recommendations:
Friends House Chook Dee: This is my ultimate hostel recommendation, conveniently located in the city center, just a 10 minute walk to the bus station. Chook Dee isn’t your typical Thailand hostel. The crew that runs the place have made it into a chill hangout where friends- whether local Thai regulars, expat regulars or backpackers gather to relax, drink and kick it. There are dorm and private rooms available.
Chian House: It’s tricky to find this teak wood Lanna style abode-turned-guesthouse, because it’s tucked away in a Thai neighborhood. There are soi dogs roaming the street, children playing, neighbors gossiping outside their homes and stores or they’re enjoying beers while watching football on TV. Chian has a quirky pack of guests- some are long term travelers, expats or weekenders. Nevertheless, everyone is family! They offer some tasty Thai and western fare enjoyed community style in the evening, a swimming pool and private rooms and bungalows.
I’m hungry, let’s eat
The dining options in Chiang Rai are diverse and delicious. Coconuts Bar may look like just a…well, bar…but you’d never guess that their curries are out of this world. The Panang curry is the best I’ve savored thus far, or any of the indian curries for that matter.
For both Thai and western dishes, especially brunch, Chivit Thamma Da is a MUST. Dress cute and bring your camera because the setting is like something out of a fairy tale. Sit outside the rustic, shabby chic style farmhouse along the tranquil Kok River and dig into their smoked salmon benedict on crispy potato pancakes. For dinner, get lost in the aromatic flavors of the North Thai pork curry and don’t forget to indulge in a creamy slice of homemade lemon cheesecake.
If you want some super tasty, cheap local Thai food then you need to visit this family run establishment. The khao man gai (chicken and rice) and tom yum soup are superb, all for around 40 baht ($2) a dish.
It’s Friday night, time to dance
Chiang Rai nightlife isn’t overrun by backpackers, elephant pants and face paint. On Jetyod Road, there is a string of bars with a mix of expats and locals. Peace House is a favorite for live music on Friday nights, where talented reggae band Croissant fills the air with the sweet sounds of Pink Floyd and Bob Marley. Peace House is as laid back as it gets, with a beautiful sitting garden for guests to enjoy drinks and socialize.
Let’s get out and explore
Chiang Rai is best known for the White Temple and Black House. Nationally recognized Thai artists showcase their eclectic architectural styles with earthbound renditions of heaven and hell.
If sightseeing isn’t your jam, nature reigns supreme on the city outskirts. Drive a motorbike into the mountains past rice paddies and trek through misty jungle to cleanse yourself in one of many gushing waterfalls. In Mae Salong the sprawling tea plantations offer breathtaking panoramic shots and just a couple of hours away, climb up into the heavens, where the village Phu Chi Fa sits far from the rest of the word. Wake early and witness a stunning sunrise from above the clouds.
Or, we can do some shopping
Saturday walking street in Chiang Rai isn’t a night market filled with cheap knock offs and Chang tank tops. The market is a weekend pastime enjoyed by the Thai community and visitors alike. City center streets are blocked off every Saturday evening and it seems like everyone in Chiang Rai is there. A Thai band plays traditional music (not 90s English covers) while Thais old and young enjoy dancing around the stage.
You’ll find one-of-a-kind arts and crafts for sale that you won’t see in other markets, and Chiang Rai is a thrifters paradise for trendy second hand clothing at cheap prices. I bought a dope pair of overalls for only 100 baht ($3)! The food vendors are plentiful, offering every Thai delicacy imaginable. Try the spicy som tum (papaya salad), North Thailand sausage and the small pancakes stuffed with tasty fillings such as Thai custard and fruit.
Want to learn more about my travels through Southeast Asia? Visit her travel blog: A Great Perhaps
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