Chiang Rai in the Media

Chiang Rai’s Doi Chaang Raises a Community on Coffee

Perfect cuppa: Wicha Promyong has put in a lot of effort to make coffee the lifeblood of Akha hill tribe from the village of Doi Chang.

CHIANG RAI – Organic coffee has helped the hill people of north-eastern Thailand, once impoverished and marginalised, build a viable economy and self-sufficient community.

WICHA Promyong does not offer any platitudes about the success of the Doi Chaang Coffee Company or why its product is rated in the top 1% of coffees worldwide.

We don’t want to be rich, we just want to be happy, says Doi Chaang Coffee Company president Wicha Promyong. – Photo SAM THAM

Instead, in a quiet voice he will say, “I don’t know”, as though he cannot quite believe it himself.

Having been with the company for over a decade and now holding the position of president, Wicha is most certainly not in the dark. However, there was a time when the soft-spoken 63-year-old genuinely did not know anything about coffee – nor did he even drink the beverage.

After working for the Thai Government and running his own successful businesses, southern-born Wicha retired to Thailand’s north – to live “in the jungle” as he calls it. Twelve years ago, Piko Saedoo, an Akha hill tribe elder from the Doi Chang village (unlike the brand, the village name is spelt with only one “a”), approached him for help with their coffee production.

By then, Arabica coffee and fruit trees such as peaches and pears had been grown in the area, the infamous Golden Triangle, for 20 years to replace opium plants under a Thai royal project.

However, the indigenous Akha could not sell their goods.

“Most of the villagers didn’t have IDs (because they were born in the remote area and births could not be registered), so they were not allowed to bring their products down (from the mountain) to sell at the market,” says Wicha. This put them at the mercy of unscrupulous traders. “We had to find a way, any which way, for them to survive.”

Wicha saw the potential of coffee for the people of the village and decided he would learn as much as he could about the production of the bean. He spent four years consulting experienced producers around the region.

“The coffee was planted just in front of their houses, so we studied it.

“We went around to Indonesia, India and Myanmar to see how they processed their coffee. We studied a book written by the Dutch 60, 70 years ago on how Indonesia grows coffee. That’s how we started,” he says.

“It took four years to improve the quality. Then I sent a sample to Europe and North America, and they said ‘this is very good coffee’, so we started to expand. Slowly, slowly.”

That original enterprise started by the villagers of Doi Chang became the Doi Chaang Coffee Company when Wicha and Canadian businessman John Darch teamed up some time later. Funding came from the Darch’s family company, but they created the “Beyond Fair Trade” business model which granted the coffee farmers 50% ownership of the company and 100% of the proceeds from the sale of their beans.

This unique coffee partnership – which is still in place today – is internationally renowned and has won numerous awards and recognition as a role model for its economic viability and socially responsible business practices.

From 80ha, Doi Chaang coffee is now grown on more than 4,000ha, and the shack that once housed makeshift processing facilities has been replaced with mechanised equipment (all the machine parts had to be transported up the mountain piece by piece as there was no proper road before).

The coffee beans are still sorted by hand to ensure quality but now everyone in the village is a coffee expert. They used to earn US$0.50 per kilo; now it’s US$16 to US$20 (RM50 to RM65). From being well below the poverty line, they now earn enough to build a viable economy and self-sufficient community.

“And one thing I like, they have all stopped doing illegal things,” says Wicha. “No more drugs, and yeah, we are all happy.”

“But the story doesn’t end there”

“We do anything to make money from the land that we have,” says Wicha, which sounds mercenary until he explains.

“We never think that anything we get belongs to us. Even now, 30% of whatever proceeds we get, we give to the Doi Chaang Foundation. We have built a school, furnished the healthcare centre. We send all the children to school, to university. Whatever money we have, instead of reinvesting 100% of it, we keep some for the well-being of the community.

“We don’t want to be rich, we just want to be happy.” It’s easy to see why John Darch once described Wicha as a cross between a hippie and a monk.

(Although his is not the face on every packet of coffee – it’s Piko Saedoo’s – Wicha has been travelling the world to promote the brand and is most identified with it. He is often addressed as Mr Doi Chaang, he says with a laugh.)

To provide further training for the coffee farmers, the company opened the Doi Chaang Coffee Academy in the village. It holds free seminars and courses on coffee farming, but also instructs on other matters such as personal health and finances.

“Now we support the cooperatives in Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and the southern part of China as well. They come to Doi Chang to learn, and we send people there to help,” says Wicha.

Civet coffee

Doi Chaang supplies a small amount of civet coffee every year – sometimes up to 300kg. All the proceeds are donated for reforestation efforts and to the area’s health centre.

(The coffee is only from wild civet. But when Wicha found out that some people were caging the animals, he put a stop to it.)

The good soil and weather of Doi Chang, about an hour’s drive from the city of Chiang Rai, provides the villagers with other sources of revenue, too. The native trees that were cut down for the opium fields have been replanted, providing a canopy for the shade-loving Arabica coffee beans. Wicha also introduced macadamia trees to the area and now the nuts are exported all over the world, even to Australia where it is an indigenous plant.

To diversify, the company is moving beyond coffee as a beverage.

“We are experimenting with many channels – right now we make soap from the grounds and coffee blossom honey. We’re also looking into making cosmetics and a bath and body product line,” says Wicha.

Millions of baht have been set aside for a childcare centre and a big school for the children in and around the area. Land has been purchased and Wicha is awaiting permission from the authorities to start building.

He says that none of these projects has received financial support from the Thai Government.

“We’ve done everything on our own, we’ve spent our own money on making life better for the people in the area.

“We have been able to do it just by selling coffee.”

Chiang Rai in the Media

Three Must-Visit Places in Chiang Rai

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CHIANG RAI – Situated in the northern part of Thailand, Chiang Rai slips under the radar of tourists as the area is not as popular as its neighboring city Chiang Mai.

However, Chiang Rai actually offers one-of-a-kind attractions, varying from a majestic white temple to Akha tribe tradition, which cannot be found anywhere else.

Those wanting to know more about Chiang Rai may consult the list below:

Wat Rong Khun (White Temple)

Pha Mee village

Located in Mae Sai district, Pha Mee village is home to the Akha hill tribe. In the past, the village was known as an opium producer and conflict area. However, with the help from the late King Rama IX, Pha Mee has transformed into a peaceful village.

During Asean Travel Journo Camp – a nine-day trip organized by Thai Journalists Association and Thai AirAsia to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Association of Southeast Asian Nations – The Jakarta Post discovered that the tribe recently developed a community-based tourism program, allowing tourists to catch a glimpse of their daily lives through various activities.

By contacting local guides such as Local Alike or go to the Pha Mee directly, tourists can expect to learn about Akha hill tribe tradition, the village history, sample the local Arabica coffee or hop on the village’s giant swing.

Singha Park

Singha is recognized as a Thai beer producer. However, in Singha Park, visitors would not see brewery or the likes, but instead a picturesque oolong tea plantation.

Meanwhile, tucked inside the park, the Phu Phi Lom restaurant is ready to satisfy your taste buds with Northern Thai delicacies.

By Jessicha Valentina
The Jakarta Post

Chiang Rai in the Media

Learning Akha hill tribe’s way of living in Pha Mee village

Two villagers pulled my seat and I screamed at the top of my lungs as the cool breeze hits my cheeks.

CHIANG RAI – The Akha’s giant swing, located on the hill of Pha Mee village in Mae Sai district, Chiang Rai, Thailand, was made of woods, ropes and tire. No safety equipment was seen around the swing, only a villager controlling one rope on the side.

Our guide, who is also Local Alike sustainable tourism initiator, Bow Pongnin, ensured us the swing is safe, explaining that it has been a tradition in the village for men to remove the wooden seat and swing as high as they could to prove their manhood.

I felt excited when seeing Pongnin and two Akha natives hopped on the swing. After they were done, I raised my hand, wanting to try it too, of course with a seat on.

As I walked towards the giant swing, I could see the bear-shaped mountains, reminding me of Akha tribe community leader Pho Luang’s story that Pha Mee village’s name was derived from the shape.

I climbed the seat and hold on the rope tightly. Two villagers pulled my seat and I screamed at the top of my lungs as the cool breeze hits my cheeks. I tried to keep my eyes open to make sure I would not fall down the hill as well as to record the breathtaking views on my mind.

After a while, I asked the villager to stop the swing. I felt fortunate as I landed on the ground, fully intact.

The giant swing is not merely for entertainment, but a part of Akha tribe traditions I learned during Asean Travel Journo Camp, an event initiated by Thai Journalists Association and Thai AirAsia.

Though the appearance looked decent, the giant swing plays a crucial role in the life of Akha people, indigenous tribe living in the northern part of Thailand.

In addition to a place for the men to show their manhood, the giant swing’s area is a central spot during Akha’s New Year. In fact, it is considered sacred as visitors are not allowed to look back while entering the gate. “They believe it is going to give bad luck,” said Pongnin.

After trying the giant swing, Pongnin and Pha Mee Community Tourism Enterprise vice president Phakakarn Rongpracharat brought us to a wooden lodge, explaining the community relationship with Thailand former King Rama IX.

Nowadays, Akha tribe grows coffee for a living. However, it was not always the case. Back in the early 1970s, the villagers produced opium to make ends meet.

Opium production was not the only issue. Pha Mee village is located a stone’s throw away from Myanmar border and conflicts happened frequently, making some of the villagers wanted to move from the area.

Fortunately, with the help of King Rama IX, Pha Mee has become a livable peaceful village. The King was said to study the area and suggest them to grow coffee, a tradition they still keep up to this day.

Though peace has come to the village, some people still associated Pha Mee with drugs.

To change the negative image and promote the village, 30 members of the community worked hand-in-hand to develop community-based tourism program, starting from October last year.

Before landing on the giant swing, this tourism community brought us to catch a glimpse of their daily lives through several activities, such as weaving, making local snack, homecoming tradition and trying Akha traditional clothing that includes a five-kilogram silver headpiece. These activities were designed for tourists to learn more about their culture.

Rongpracharat told The Jakarta Post that they enjoy hosting people. “At first we did not have any idea how to start [the community-based tourism], but with the help from several organizations, such as AirAsia and Local Alike, they started to understand it,” she said.

She added that tourism activity had become one of the ways to preserve the tradition.

“Time has changed. Sometime, the children feel shy to wear their traditional Akha clothing. [Since we started the tourism program] the children began to feel proud [to wear the traditional clothing],” she explained.

After the entire activities were done, the community sent us back to our vans. We bid goodbye and, surprisingly, I felt a bit melancholy. In less than 12 hours, this community not only made me understand their traditions, but their hospitality made me, temporarily at least, feel as a part of them.

Jessicha Valentina
The Jakarta Post

Chiang Rai in the Media

How to Spend a Weekend in Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai is often compared to what Chiang Mai was like years ago before tourism boomed and saturated the local community. This Northeast Thailand gem sits within the heart of the Golden Triangle just a mere few hours from the borders of Laos and Myanmar and a scenic four hour bus ride through Doi Luang National Park from Chiang Mai.

Out of the way for most travelers, Chiang Rai has remained unspoiled by the robust influx of tourism. It boasts contemporary Asian urban flair with an artistic and hippie-esque ambiance while retaining Thai authenticity. I set down roots in Chiang Rai after backpacking around Southeast Asia for five months. You can get a taste of the small town expat life here and how the expats and locals have peacefully integrated, living side by side in harmony.

Before I moved to Chiang Rai, a spontaneous weekend visit while traveling was enough to make me fall in love with its quirky charm and creative vibes. What does a weekend in Chiang Rai look like? Sit back, close your eyes and take my hand. Letâ€™s go on a Chiang Rai adventure.

First, we travel there on the back of an elephant…

Just kidding folks, I know riding elephants is a touchy subject; Chiang Rai has its own international airport if youâ€™d rather fly. The popular option is to travel by bus from Chiang Mai. Purchase your ticket at the Green Bus counter in Arcade Bus Station. They have regular buses leaving throughout the day.

Transportation Tip: Renting a motorbike for the weekend allows the most freedom, but if you want to get around using local transportation, take the blue songthaews for 20-30 baht 50 cents- $1) per person.

WAKE UP. Weâ€™re in Chiang Rai! Letâ€™s find a place to stay…

The bus station in Chiang Rai is located in the heart of the city center. You can find plenty of accommodation options at reasonable prices, whether you seek a dorm, guesthouse or hotel room. Here are my top recommendations:

Friends House Chook Dee: This is my ultimate hostel recommendation, conveniently located in the city center, just a 10 minute walk to the bus station. Chook Dee isnâ€™t your typical Thailand hostel. The crew that runs the place have made it into a chill hangout where friends- whether local Thai regulars, expat regulars or backpackers gather to relax, drink and kick it. There are dorm and private rooms available.

Chian House: Itâ€™s tricky to find this teak wood Lanna style abode-turned-guesthouse, because itâ€™s tucked away in a Thai neighborhood. There are soi dogs roaming the street, children playing, neighbors gossiping outside their homes and stores or theyâ€™re enjoying beers while watching football on TV. Chian has a quirky pack of guests- some are long term travelers, expats or weekenders. Nevertheless, everyone is family! They offer some tasty Thai and western fare enjoyed community style in the evening, a swimming pool and private rooms and bungalows.

Iâ€™m hungry, letâ€™s eat

The dining options in Chiang Rai are diverse and delicious. Coconuts Bar may look like just a…well, bar…but youâ€™d never guess that their curries are out of this world. The Panang curry is the best Iâ€™ve savored thus far, or any of the indian curries for that matter.

For both Thai and western dishes, especially brunch, Chivit Thamma Da is a MUST. Dress cute and bring your camera because the setting is like something out of a fairy tale. Sit outside the rustic, shabby chic style farmhouse along the tranquil Kok River and dig into their smoked salmon benedict on crispy potato pancakes. For dinner, get lost in the aromatic flavors of the North Thai pork curry and donâ€™t forget to indulge in a creamy slice of homemade lemon cheesecake.

If you want some super tasty, cheap local Thai food then you need to visit this family run establishment. The khao man gai (chicken and rice) and tom yum soup are superb, all for around 40 baht ($2) a dish.

Itâ€™s Friday night, time to dance

Chiang Rai nightlife isnâ€™t overrun by backpackers, elephant pants and face paint. On Jetyod Road, there is a string of bars with a mix of expats and locals. Peace House is a favorite for live music on Friday nights, where talented reggae band Croissant fills the air with the sweet sounds of Pink Floyd and Bob Marley. Peace House is as laid back as it gets, with a beautiful sitting garden for guests to enjoy drinks and socialize.

Letâ€™s get out and explore

Chiang Rai is best known for the White Temple and Black House. Nationally recognized Thai artists showcase their eclectic architectural styles with earthbound renditions of heaven and hell.

If sightseeing isnâ€™t your jam, nature reigns supreme on the city outskirts. Drive a motorbike into the mountains past rice paddies and trek through misty jungle to cleanse yourself in one of many gushing waterfalls. In Mae Salong the sprawling tea plantations offer breathtaking panoramic shots and just a couple of hours away, climb up into the heavens, where the village Phu Chi Fa sits far from the rest of the word. Wake early and witness a stunning sunrise from above the clouds.

Or, we can do some shopping

Saturday walking street in Chiang Rai isnâ€™t a night market filled with cheap knock offs and Chang tank tops. The market is a weekend pastime enjoyed by the Thai community and visitors alike. City center streets are blocked off every Saturday evening and it seems like everyone in Chiang Rai is there. A Thai band plays traditional music (not 90s English covers) while Thais old and young enjoy dancing around the stage.

Youâ€™ll find one-of-a-kind arts and crafts for sale that you wonâ€™t see in other markets, and Chiang Rai is a thrifters paradise for trendy second hand clothing at cheap prices. I bought a dope pair of overalls for only 100 baht ($3)! The food vendors are plentiful, offering every Thai delicacy imaginable. Try the spicy som tum (papaya salad), North Thailand sausage and the small pancakes stuffed with tasty fillings such as Thai custard and fruit.

Courtney Lambert Travel writer and adventurer with the Huffington Post

Want to learn more about my travels through Southeast Asia? Visit her travel blog: A Great Perhaps